Fukuro Tsujigahana Obi Metalllic Flowers and Waves

Width: 31cm  12 1/4"

Length: 430cm  169 1/4"

Tsujigahana (辻ヶ花) is a Japanese fabric dyeing technique that originated in the Muromachi period. It was called the `lost dyeing technique' because it died out during the early years of the Edo period (1603-1868). During the 20th century, scholars redefined tsujigahana to refer to a specific textile technique that uses stitch-resist dyeing (nuishime shibori) and ink painting to decorate a plain weave, lightweight fabric, often silk. The fabric is often further embellished using embroidery and gold leaf.

Historically, tsujigahana garments were worn by the Japanese upper class during the 16th century. After the death of a man, these garments would have been preserved as family heirlooms. However, for tsujigahana garments owned by women, these garments were often donated to Buddhist temples to pay for the memorial service. Temples deconstructed these garments into individual textile fragments and reconfigured them into temple decorations. During the 19th century, Buddhist temples lost the financial protection of the state, and many temples sold these decorations. They began to circulate on the antiques market, and were often deconstructed into the original fabric panels or fragments.

In modern times Dyer Itchiku Kubota is famous for contributing the revival of Tsujigahana. When he was very young he saw this particular technique called Tsujigahana. He has been captivated its unique beauty and started creating his own dyeing technique called Itchiku Tsujigahana. After Itchiku had revived Tsujigahana, many kimono makers also started making Tsujigahana pattern kimono.