Black and Gold Darari Obi
Black and Gold Darari Obi
This Black and Gold Obi was worn by a maiko for a formal occasion. Measurements and more pictures coming soon.
A maiko (舞妓, IPA: /ˈmaɪkoʊ/ MY-koh, Japanese: [ma.iko]) is an apprentice geisha in Kyoto and Western Japan. Their jobs consist of performing songs, dances, and playing the shamisen or other traditional Japanese instruments for visitors during banquets and parties, known as ozashiki. Maiko wearing hikizuri kimono typically wear it with an obi known as a darari obi (だらり帯). The darari obi is 6-7 metres long, is roughly 30cm wide, and is worn exclusively by maiko. Due to its length and weight, a male dresser (known as an otokoshi) is needed to tie it; otokoshi can dress a maiko in as little as five minutes, and may dress a number of maiko each night. The crest of a maiko's okiya is either dyed, embroidered or woven onto the end of the obi, below the kaikiri (end lines). For formal occasions, gold darari obi are worn.
Hikizuri
Most maiko wear a style of kimono known as a hikizuri (引きずり, lit. 'trailing skirt'). Hikizuri are typically anywhere from 200–240 centimetres (79–94 in) long, and often feature a lightly-padded hem to create weight allowing the skirt to trail along the floor. When walking outside, maiko hold their hikizuri up either with their hands, or by tying it in place with a small cord so that it does not drag along the ground. The style of hikizuri worn by most maiko features long, furisode-style sleeves, and may feature tucks sewn horizontally into the sleeves and vertically along the shoulders; this is a holdover from before WWII, when maiko often began their training at a young age, and would remove the tucks as they grew.
For formal occasions, maiko wear a black kurotomesode-style hikizuri featuring 5 crests (kamon) to signify the okiya they belong to.
Darari obi
Maiko wearing hikizuri kimono typically wear it with an obi known as a darari obi (だらり帯, lit. 'dangling obi'). The darari obi is 6–7 metres (20–23 ft) long, is roughly 30 centimetres (12 in) wide, and is worn exclusively by maiko. Due to its length and weight, a male dresser (known as an otokoshi) is needed to tie it; otokoshi can dress a maiko in as little as five minutes, and may dress a number of maiko each night. The crest of a maiko's okiya is either dyed, embroidered or woven onto the end of the obi, below the kaikiri (end lines). For formal occasions, gold brocade darari obi are worn.
Kimono
Some maiko outside of Kyoto, and in particular in Tokyo, wear furisode instead of hikizuri. These apprentices (sometimes known as hangyoku) may also wear a wig instead of having their own hair styled.
Obi
Maiko outside Kyoto may also wear a fukuro obi instead of a darari obi, which is easier to tie and wear, Apprentices in Tokyo typically tie their obi in the fukura suzume style.
Stenciled Botan 牡丹 motifs (peony) in white, Pinks, and rust decorate the this Rinzu silk Furisode. Colorful Botan motifs are featured on the side, back, and sleeves, with matched patterns that wrap around the body. The background red is bright and colorful, with an orange base to it. Each of the handpainted Botan motifs I have delicate highlight lines of white, and the white also highlights the Beautiful green Botan leaves. The inside lining is a think white silk, and the bottom of the lining is Rinzu silk, Ombre dyed from the outside edge.
Peonies were originally introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period, however it didn’t enter the poetic canon of flowers until the Edo period. Botan are also known as the king of flowers, and they are considered an appropriate floral offering for the Buddha. Classically, botan is associated with summer (especially early summer) as that is when the flowers bloom naturally. However, during the Edo period, cultivators created different breeds of peonies that bloom in winter, spring, and autumn as well.
The kimono is constructed of Rinzu silk, which is first woven with a sayagata design, and then dyed. The sayagata (紗綾形) design is derived from a traditional Buddhist swastika, which is known as a manji (卍 or 万字) in Japanese. The first kanji (卍) depicts a Buddhist manji which has the tines facing in a counterclockwise direction. While manji will always face counterclockwise, because sayagata is made up of interlinking manji, you will see manji facing both directions in this design. This symbol has been used since the neolithic times and across many cultures. In modern day Japan, it is used on maps as a symbol for a Buddhist temple. The second kanji (万字) means “ten thousand words.”
Condition
Excellent Condition