White Chrysanthemum Tomesode

Item description:

• Heavy black silk, with a white silk lining, and show no signs of wear. The hem is clean.

• Design combines stencils and freehand silk dye techniques

• 24 karat gold accents are found in the form of gold wrapped stitching, tracing the contours of the flower. Gold is also applied in stencils to accent the design.

• Some age spots can be seen in the white parts of the design, and on the inside of the white silk lining. The fabric itself is strong and in good condition. There are no pulls or rips, and the gold foil and gold threads are in excellent condition.

• 5 mon kurotomesode- goshichi clan

Decoration and Motif Notes

Decorations are executed with tsutsugaki yuzen (rice paste resist painting) and hand painting. With a dyeing technique invented in 17th century Kyoto, a mixture of rice paste and soybeans is used to draw delicate free-hand linear motifs on the silk. An artist squeezes the paste through a funnel-shaped container much like a small pastry bag. After this paste resist dries, he paints the areas on both sides of the lines with brushes, using the desired dye colors. Delicate shaded effects can be created, and the rice paste outlines prevent the dye from seeping into surrounding areas. Even broad expanses of the background color are dyed in this manner -- by hand painting. The most characteristic features of kimono ornamentation made in this way are subtle color gradations and narrow, flowing light lines that outline the motifs.  The yuzen dyed chrysanthemum motifs in this kurotomesode are a cream color with blue-grey accents. The expertly painted blooming and budding chrysanthemums sweep across the three panels of the kurotomesode.

Gold and silver threads are made of foil applied to thin membrane or paper strips which are wrapped around silk threads. These metallic threads cannot be stitched through the silk fabrics, so they are traditionally "couched": laid on the fabric surface and stitched down with fine silk threads. The technique is called shusu.  The chrysanthemum motif has gold couching in the center of the painted design of the open flower. The gold couched threads are coiled in the center of the bloom, adding a golden radiance that is echoed by the application of gold foil along the edges of the petals of the opened chrysanthemum.

Gold metallic foil is applied to the fabric surface, creating lavish effects. Rice paste is first applied to the fabric in design areas -- either drawn freely or stenciled. Then metallic leaf is pressed onto the partially dried rice paste. The foil falls away in surrounding areas. In the past, surihaku decoration was widely used on dramatic Noh theatrical costumes, and its use continued on lavish formal kimono and ceremonial uchikake wedding kimono. Gold foil is used lavishly in this kurotomesode. Fine lines of gold are applied to the opened chrysanthemum that starts on the left panel with petals that stretch across the bottom of the kurotomesode. The gold is used as a highlight on the edges of the petal. Gold stencils are applied to the background black silk behind the center motif of the design as well.